Issue · September 2026 · everything a nomad needs, city by city

Cuba · the visa

Havana

Havana suits a remote worker whose job survives a day offline, who carries cash and wants a month somewhere unlike anywhere else, with a private flat in Vedado costing less than a room in most capitals. The catch is the infrastructure: six nationwide grid collapses so far in 2026, average measured connections of a few megabits, and mobile data sold to foreigners in hard currency at some of the highest per-gigabyte prices in the Americas.

    A month · September 2026$700–1,600Coworking4 spacesPieces21

The sheet

Researched 7 September 2026 · figures hold for September 2026

A month in Havana

CUP (Cuban peso); informal rate 683 CUP per USD on 6 September 2026, which is what rents, SIMs and most nomad spending are actually priced against
One-bed flat, Vedado (private, with air conditioning)
CUP 205,000–342,000 ($300–500) a month
Landlords price in USD and take cash; the guides that track the area put a private one-bed at $300–500, a larger central flat at $800–900. Figures are from undated 2025–2026 guides, converted at the 6 September 2026 informal rate.
Coworking hot desk
Not published (September 2026)
None of the four spaces found publishes a day or month rate online; Amarillo Coworking in Vedado and Instar in Old Havana answer on Facebook or Instagram. Budget the price of a hotel-lobby coffee instead.
Coffee (cappuccino)
CUP 800–2,000 ($1.20–3)
$1.21 in the eta-cuba cost index; around $3 for a drink in a foreigner-facing café per Andy Sto. Both undated 2025–2026 figures.
Lunch at an inexpensive local restaurant
CUP 1,400–5,500 ($2–8)
Under $2 at a neighbourhood cafeteria, $3.80 in the eta-cuba index, $8 at a paladar aimed at visitors. State-salary Cubans pay in pesos; prices for foreigners drift upward.
Tourist SIM and data (Cubacel Tur, ETECSA)
$13.99 (4 GB, 7 days) or $34.99 (10 GB, 30 days), sold in USD
Cubacel Tur Plus at $34.99 includes 100 minutes, 100 SMS and unlimited WhatsApp and Facebook for 30 days; add-ons of 10, 20 or 50 GB extend validity. Price checked September 2026.
Local mobile data on a resident line
CUP 360 for 6 GB a month, then CUP 3,360 per extra 3 GB or $10 per 4 GB
ETECSA tariff in force since 30 May 2025 and still the basis of 2026 reporting: national top-ups capped at 360 CUP per 30 days, everything beyond that in hard currency or at ten times the base price.
Transport
CUP 170–700 a ride ($0.25–1), or $25 for a monthly pass in the cost index
State buses cost pennies but run erratically during fuel shortages; shared almendrón taxis along the main avenues run about $1 a seat. Undated 2025–2026 figures.
Gym membership
CUP 25,800 ($37.75) a month
eta-cuba cost index, undated, 2025–2026. Independent gyms in Vedado and Miramar price in USD.
Beer
CUP 1,300–2,000 ($1.90–3) a bottle or draught
$1.90 for a bottle in a shop, $2–3 in a bar, per the Andy Sto and eta-cuba figures, both undated 2025–2026.
A modest month$700–1,600

CUP 480,000–1,090,000 ($700–1,600) for a single person in September 2026, converted at 683 CUP per dollar. Basis: a $300–500 private one-bed in Vedado, one $34.99 tourist data plan plus at least one add-on, eating mostly at local places with a few paladar meals, shared taxis, and no coworking fee because none is published; Andy Sto's guide puts a careful month at $700–1,000 and nomads.com's crowd-sourced figure sits at $1,200–1,400.

Slow and interruptible, and the single reason Havana is a base for some jobs and not others. The measured citywide average on nomads.com is about 5 Mbps; the two coworking spaces reviewers trust report up to 42 Mbps. Many casas particulares still have no private connection, so the flat's wifi is a question to ask before paying a deposit. The SIM to buy on arrival is the Cubacel Tur from ETECSA, sold at Terminal 3 of José Martí airport around the clock and at any ETECSA office: the Básico is $13.99 for 4 GB over 7 days, the Plus $34.99 for 10 GB over 30 days with unlimited WhatsApp and Facebook, and add-ons of 10, 20 or 50 GB extend the line up to 90 days. There is no eSIM. Resident lines get 6 GB for 360 CUP a month under the May 2025 tariff, after which every extra gigabyte is priced in hard currency, so Cubans ration data and the parks are crowded. A VPN is needed for many US-based services, and US bank cards do not work anywhere. Power is the deeper problem: the grid collapsed nationwide for the sixth time in 2026 on 3 August after three collapses in July alone, and scheduled cuts in parts of Havana ran past 30 hours in July. A flat with a generator or a battery inverter, plus a charged power bank, is part of the working setup, not a luxury.

Where to work

  • Amarillo Coworking · Vedadoday Not published; enquire via Facebook or Instagram (September 2026) · month Not published (September 2026)The space named most often by nomad guides for Vedado; nomads.com reviewers report stable desks and connections reaching 42 Mbps, several times the city's measured 5 Mbps average.
  • Instar · Habana Vieja (Old Havana)day Not published (September 2026) · month Not published (September 2026)Listed by Andy Sto's Havana guide as the Old Havana coworking option; walkable from the casas around Obispo and the Plaza Vieja.
  • Havana Coworking · Havana (address not published)day Not published (September 2026) · month Not published (September 2026)Named alongside Amarillo in nomads.com reviews as one of two places with dependable desks and speeds up to 42 Mbps.
  • Parque Científico de La Habana coworking · Boyeros (Carretera a San Antonio km 2½, Torrens), far from the nomad districtsday Not disclosed on the official page (September 2026) · month Not disclosed on the official page (September 2026)The state science park's shared workspace, aimed at R&D companies rather than freelancers; the only coworking with an official website, but a taxi ride out of town and oriented to registered businesses.

Cafés that tolerate laptops

  • Cuba Libro · Vedado, Calle 24 at the corner of Calle 19Bookshop café with a garden, English-language books and a mix of Cubans and foreigners; inexpensive drinks and nobody moving customers along. Appears on Havana wifi-café lists, though as everywhere in the city the connection is ETECSA-dependent.
  • Café Arcángel · Centro Habana, a few blocks from the Old Havana tourist streetsSmall, quiet, and rated for some of the best coffee in the city; listed among cafés with wifi and the sort of place where a laptop for two hours is unremarkable.
  • Café Fortuna Joe · VedadoVintage-decorated Vedado café listed on wifi-café rundowns; slow-paced, with seating away from the street.
  • El Café · Habana ViejaOld Havana breakfast and coffee spot that appears on the Havana wifi-café list; busiest mid-morning, calmer after lunch.
  • Hotel Nacional lobby and terrace · Vedado, Malecón end of Calle 23Not a café but the fallback nomad guides name for a connection that holds when the parks and cafés drop; buy a coffee, sit on the terrace, and use the hotel's own link.

Where nomads live

  • VedadoCUP 205,000–342,000 ($300–500) a month for a private one-bed; larger central flats $800–900. Undated 2025–2026 guide figures converted at the September 2026 informal rate.The district nomad guides call the centre of the scene: leafy grid streets, most of the wifi parks, the university, Amarillo Coworking, the Hotel Nacional and Meliá Cohiba as connection backstops, and the best density of paladares and bars.
  • Habana Vieja (Old Havana)Around CUP 342,000 ($500) a month for a comfortable Airbnb one-bed with internet and air conditioning, per an undated guideThe restored colonial core, tourist-facing and the priciest per square metre; suits a short first month for its walkability, less so for anyone who wants quiet or local prices.
  • Centro HabanaPrivate rooms from about CUP 10,000 ($15) a night, so roughly $450 a month before negotiating a monthly rateThe cheapest and most lived-in of the three, between Vedado and the old town; crumbling housing stock, little tourist infrastructure, and the most exposed to long outage windows.
  • Miramar (Playa)No verified monthly figure found; the guides describe it as the expensive optionEmbassies, gated villas and the better-supplied private shops; quiet and generator-heavy but a taxi ride from everything a nomad without a car needs.

The scene, such as it is

Havana has no nomad economy in the sense of Lisbon or Medellín: no visa scheme, no laptop-hostel strip, and coworking counted in single digits. The people working remotely here are mostly on 30-day tourist cards, renting from a casa owner they found on Airbnb or through a friend, and treating the wifi parks of Vedado, the Hotel Nacional terrace and one of two coworking rooms as a rota of places to get online.

Vedado is where that rota runs. The 1950s grid between the university and the Malecón holds the parks, the hotels, Amarillo Coworking, Cuba Libro and most of the paladares, and its flats are the ones landlords have fitted with the routers, water tanks and inverters that make a month workable. Old Havana is the place to visit from there, not the place to sign a lease.

Money and paperwork

Cash rules. The informal rate stood at 683 CUP to the dollar on 6 September 2026, against an official retail rate 43 pesos lower, and the euro at 775. Rent, SIMs, coworking and most restaurant bills for foreigners are quoted in dollars or euros; pesos are for buses, street food and the occasional state shop. Nobody accepts US-issued cards, and non-US cards work at a handful of hotels and almost nowhere else, so the month's budget comes in through the airport in notes.

Most nationalities enter on a tourist card valid 30 days and extendable once for another 30 at an immigration office; Canadians get 90. Immigration stamps the card, not the passport. Cuban-approved medical insurance is compulsory and starts around $3 a day. Sixty days is therefore the practical ceiling for a stay without leaving and coming back.

What recent arrivals report

Reviews collected on nomads.com through 2026 describe the same three things: internet that is slow and inconvenient, needing prepaid cards or a walk to a park or hotel; power cuts that stop work and shut off water pumps; and shortages of bottled water and basics that turn small errands into long ones. Guides written for the 2025–2026 season still put a careful month at $700–1,000 and a comfortable one at $1,200–1,600, and still recommend Vedado without hesitation.

The 2026 grid record is the part no guide has caught up with. Nationwide collapses in March, a western-provinces failure in May, three in July and a sixth on 3 August, followed by storms that undid restoration work, mean a remote worker should plan for whole days offline rather than hours, and should ask a landlord one question before any other: what happens here when the lights go out.

Seasons

November to May is the dry season, with days of 25–30°C, lower humidity and the highest rents and flight prices; it is the only stretch a first-time base should be attempted. June to October is hot, wet and the hurricane season, peaking August to October, with dengue risk and, in 2026, storms that repeatedly set back grid repairs after the August collapse. Summer heat also pushes demand on the failing power system, so outage windows lengthen exactly when air conditioning matters most. September, the month these figures hold for, is the wrong month to arrive.

Researched from cubaheadlines.com · cubaceltourist.com · cubasbest.com · cubadebate.cu · andysto.com · eta-cuba.com · digitalnomads.world · nomads.com · figures hold for September 2026

Where to live

10 pieces by the writers on the ground

  1. Where to live · HavanaThe Havana Hotels That Stay Cool When the Power CutsHotels that handle blackouts, useful for longer stays
  2. Where to live · HavanaHavana's Casas Particulares Keep Their Own Lights OnPrivate houses with generators, practical stay options
  3. Where to live · HavanaVedado, Havana: jazz basements, modern kitchens and the city after darkVedado neighbourhood with nightlife and dining highlights
  4. Where to live · HavanaMiramar, Havana: the city’s west side of space, shade and serious salsaNeighbourhood guide to Miramar's residential and salsa scene
  5. Where to live · HavanaHabana Vieja, Havana: plazas, rum and the old city that still singsClassic Havana neighbourhood with plazas and street life
  6. Where to live · HavanaCentro Habana, Havana: the city at street volumeStreet-level view of Centro Habana's authentic city life
  7. Where to live · HavanaSiboney, Havana: the quiet diplomatic suburb with a pool and a taxiQuiet diplomatic suburb with local amenities and calm
  8. Where to live · HavanaPlaya, Havana: the city where Havana exhalesNeighbourhood profile of Playa with local vibe and paladares
  9. Where to live · HavanaCojímar, Havana: Hemingway’s Harbour Village Still Living by the TideNeighbourhood walk in Cojímar with local history and food
  10. Where to live · HavanaCasablanca, Havana: the hill above the harbourNeighbourhood overview of Casablanca with local atmosphere

What it costs

1 piece by the writers on the ground

  1. What it costs · HavanaEating Well in Havana When the Cash and the Fish Run OutBudget dining addresses with prices and practical tips

Getting around

3 pieces by the writers on the ground

  1. Getting around · HavanaHow to Cross Havana Without a Tank of PetrolDetailed transport options in Havana amid fuel scarcity
  2. Getting around · HavanaWhat to Settle Before You Book Havana on a US PassportVisa and travel rules for US passport holders in Havana
  3. Getting around · HavanaHow Havana Fell Back in Love With the BicycleCycling infrastructure and rentals amid fuel crisis

Staying safe

3 pieces by the writers on the ground

  1. Staying safe · HavanaPacking for Havana When the Lights Go OutPacking and venue tips for power outages in Havana
  2. Staying safe · HavanaPlanning Havana Around the Blackouts and Empty StreetsPlanning Havana stays amid blackouts and service gaps
  3. Staying safe · HavanaPlanning Havana Around Blackouts, Heat and Cash ShortagesPlanning Havana amid blackouts and cash shortages

The weekend

4 pieces by the writers on the ground

  1. The weekend · HavanaTwo Nights in Havana and One Day in the Viñales ValleyItinerary combining Havana stay and Viñales day trip
  2. The weekend · HavanaFusterlandia: The Gaudí of the Caribbean and Havana's Most Surprising NeighbourhoodHalf-day trip guide with art, food and local details
  3. The weekend · HavanaSanteria in Havana: The Drums, the Saints and the Religion That Outlived the RevolutionCultural route through Santeria sites in Havana neighborhoods
  4. The weekend · HavanaRegla, Havana: Across the Bay, Under the SaintsShort ferry trip to Regla with cultural insights

The kit

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A first week before the flat: the Havana hotel directory